Parents said they’d take pay for vet bill, didn’t pay, and now vet sent bill to debt collector in my name.

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If I were in your situation I would:

* Ask your parents once more to pay the vet bill. Tell them it has gone to collections and that it is affecting your credit.
* If that fails, pay the vet bill if you have the $500 available in your savings (to get it off your credit report).
* Contact the vet and ask to close your account so your name is no longer tied to their dog (so they can’t rack up further bills in your name in the future)
* Never trust your parents with money issues in the future, and treat this as an expensive lesson.
* Move out as soon as practicable.


Current debts aside, your parents shouldn’t own a pet they are unable or unwilling to pay for routine vet care for. You can choose if/how to tell them that, but that is the hard truth.

Dogs can be expensive and even when perfectly healthy visits of $250-$600 are not unusual. Just a routine dental cleaning can be $800+. Six months’ heart worm and flea/tick is $125+.

This is by no means ordinary but when one of mine was hit by a car, it was $12,000 over 14 months to get him back to normal. He was hardly in any real risk of death but costs add up.

Shit happens, which is why I keep an emergency fund savings account strictly for my two dogs that is separate of personal and auto emergency fund accounts I have.

Dogs will get sick, have ear infections, cysts, skin infections, swallow things they shouldn’t, step on broken glass, chew on something hard and break a tooth, and get stung by bees. These kinds of things are inevitable and the costs should be planned for and considered par for the course for any responsible dog owner to deal with every 2-3 years on top of preventative care like vaccines, flea/tick, dentals, and annual check ups.

As others have said, plan to move out and distrust your parents in future financial decisions. Put credit freezes with each scoring agency because someone who will stick you with a debt like that may be prone to doing it again if they have easy access to your social. Your parents probably don’t rise to that level of fraud but they have certainly betrayed you here.

You can try to contact the vet. Their options may be limited after it’s gone to collections but some vets will work with people on a case by case basis to at least offer payment plans, though they may have their hands tied by the collection agency.

Ultimately it’s your parents’ responsibility to you, as well as a hard lesson learned about your responsibility for debts in your name. You should’ve received notices/bills prior to this going to collections and should’ve known it was outstanding in your name.


Yes. It will affect your credit score negatively when the collection agency reports it to the 3 credit bureaus.

Also, that negative remark will stay on your credit file for upto 7 years.

You should try talking to the collection agency and see if they’ll settle for a lower amount. I know you don’t have a job or any savings. But, try and get your parents to pay the lower amount (if agreed to by the collection agency.)

I have never done this before, so I don’t know if this works. But, I have seen this being recommended on other similar questions.

Good luck!


All the other answers are worth listening to, especially getting your name off the records at the vet and, if nothing else, seeing if you can make small monthly payments.

Since you are 19 and an adult, you should set up a bank account or, preferably, a credit union account, far removed from your parents. Get a PO Box if you can’t move out. Do this carefully, perhaps using your student address. Don’t tell your parents about either.

Get a job and don’t tell them. Save money. If they find out and it means they don’t pay for your education, that doesn’t mean you have to end school. You can get a lot of financial aid if you are financially independent of your parents.

Your school probably has counselors that can help. Or maybe a trusted professor.

Your parents can’t be trusted. It is difficult to not be honest with them, but, they are not being honest with you.


`full time community college student that doesn’t have any income because my parents don’t want me to have a job so I can “focus on school”`

Maybe but it has the side effect of making you dependent on them and forcing you to put up with their bs such as …

`My dad recently got a puppy without telling anyone about it and kind of dumped all of the responsibility on me to take care of it.`

Nice >.< – You could just say no but since you live at home and have no money, you’re kinda stuck aren’t you? Get a job, keep it secret, set up a bank account at a bank they don’t use and sign up for paperless billing so stuff doesn’t get sent to the house (maybe set up a po box for yourself or have the debit card sent to a trusted friend or relative) .

`Next thing you know they do some lab work on the dog that ends up being around 500 dollars and my parents refused to pay it because they “only wanted to pay for the treatment and didn’t approve of the lab work”`

Sigh. The labwork was likely needed to determine what exactly the infection was so they could administer the proper treatment. They can’t give you a treatment unless they diagnose the problem. That should be obvious, but I’ve seen pet owners like this aplenty to know that they want a dog but none of the responsibility. I’d see if you can rehome it. I hate to suggest it but it’s likely in doggos best interest if they won’t care for it properly and you can’t.

`I don’t have a credit card, so will this affect my credit score?`

You don’t need a credit card to have a score. Everyone has to start somewhere … and it sounds like you might be starting with an account in collections. Yikes. Even once paid off it will stay on for 7 years and can make getting any other credit to build up your profile really hard, especially if that’s all you’ve had.

`Is there a way that I can get out of this situation? What should I do?`

Lots of good advice here but one thing that hasn’t been mentioned is if you signed anything assuming financial responsibility. Your vet may differ but when I got my pets signed up with the vet, there was a form to sign where I stated I acknowledged I would be responsible for treatment. This was separate from their profile and the “owner” on file. Try disputing the debt, it might be that they’re going after anyone they can, especially if you don’t recall signing any such paper.

Of course, if the validate it you do owe it. For future reference the way your parents “disputed” it isn’t how it works … a dispute is a challenge to the verifiable status of the debt (whether or not the charges are real, not if they’re wanted). Not wanting to pay it doesn’t mean you don’t owe it.

`I feel like I really got screwed over because my parents constantly told me they’d take care of it when I told them that they needed to pay it off but they didn’t.`

Don’t rely on your parents to uphold their word. In the future do not do these things for them. Freeze your credit with all 3 bureaus btw to keep your report safe from any unsavory activity in the event of identity theft.


Letter from Louisiana Department of Revenue stating I owe money from 2017 but I’ve never been a resident of Louisiana

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Go talk to JAG, they’ll help you figure it out.


As the other commenter said, go to JAG time now. Let your first line know so you don’t get hemmed up.

Unfortunately it isn’t uncommon for states to try taking advantage of service members. CA fought hard and used every trick in the book to trick me into switching my residency. Told them to pound sand and got JAG involved.


This exact thing happened with a buddy of mine, but was the state of GA and he is a CO resident.

It took reporting the specific county to the state inspector general of their tax revenue to get them to cancel the debt.

He checked with NCIS first to see if it was a scam, which NCIS was only able to verify the names on the paper were state employees.

It has the smell of a scam targeting military. Maybe even a state backed scam.

Do not pay it, under any circumstance. Go full nuclear on reporting them. The amount doesn’t make any sense, there is no legal basis for the tax, and the state should be very used to dealing with tax exempt military. Something else is in play.


I’m stationed in Louisiana and I’ve heard of this happening before. Talk to legal and see. You shouldn’t have to pay it.


You arent by chance married with a spouse that worked in state are you? And you didnt do any sort of side work that you got a 1099 for?


Would it be silly of me to buy a new car while still paying off my student loans?

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leasing is the most expensive way to get a car, I would stay away from a BRAND new car but with your income you could easily save cash and buy a 10k car outright. that would be awesome


Congratulations on working your way into a pretty good situation.

Buying brand new cars is a luxury and not one you need right now. Leasing is mostly only good for corporations, it’s a finance trick that changes the way car ownership looks to companies who, for example, provide cars to their execs as perks. The exception right now is certain electric and hybrid cars where manufacturers want to be able to control how long the cars remain in service.

Pre-owned is where its at. You avoid that steep first year or two depreciation, you own the asset and can sell it without huge losses if your situation changes, you can still get a car with some manufacturer warranty left on it (aftermarket warranty extensions are not a good way to spend your money), etc. There are some really good tools on the internet now for searching for used cars – they allow you to specify make. model, max age, max mileage, max distance from where you live and they find you the best deals. My favorite is cargurus.

I found a good article that argues the point well. I don’t know how this sub feels about links… search for ‘a hack for beating car depreciation’ on edmunds.


#1 Salary is $94,000. Do not count on money you have yet to receive. Any OT/per-diems are just the icing on the cake. Budget like you have a salary of 94,000 only. Anything extra should go into extra payments towards your debts, then retirement, then savings, then index funds. Once you hit the index fund portion and are comfortable then you can expand your budget to enjoy life more. Do not budget like you are on a salary of 100,000 until you officially have the salary of 100,000. In general, when people get raises and have the ability to contribute to a 401k, I also recommend to increase the contribution rate of their 401k.

#2 Your loans are manageable and it is great that you are paying them off relatively aggressively. It definitely helps that you are living at home, but are you planning to move out too? What is your current move out plan? Staying for X years, until you meet Mr. Special, or until you pay off your student loans? Are you planning to rent on moving out or do you dream to own a home one day? If the latter, I recommend to start squirreling away additional money in the form of “mortgage” payments from the difference in your current rent. This will give you a somewhat realistic scenario of what to expect. I think your mom made a great move by making you pay some rent. It might be possible to discuss with her the cost of groceries and utilities to get a measure of how much she spends on average a month to give you an idea of how much to expect. You are different from your mom, so you can expect the number to be different, but she may bring up things you have never expected before.

#3 Please no more carrying credit card debt, especially if you are putting more money towards student loans. 🙂 You can pay off the statement balance every month and your credit will be built based off that and you won’t pay any interest (yay!).

#4 Explore your reasoning for wanting a mid-size SUV. You have no family yet or in the foreseeable future(?). You did say it was a want and I completely understand. Is there a reason you might not consider a CRV instead? I will give the caveat that I lack personal experience with CRVs and SUVs as I’ve never really owned/driven them that much so it is hard for me to understand the desire to want one aside from the occasionally convenience of space. Keep in mind that these cars also consume a lot of gas compared to sedans so expect your gas budget to increase.

#5 Your job is new. I would recommend to avoid the instant lifestyle creep. Definitely get a used or CPO car (I still recommend a sedan) so that you can drive safely and with little worry. Save a little towards your car and then trade up to a used/CPO SUV that you want if you still desire one in a year or two. In general, leases are frowned upon here as they typically are not financially smart in most cases so I would not explore a lease personally. Once you are stable, you have a healthy contribution to retirement, little debt, etc. then I would explore New options. I understand the mindset of wanting New so I won’t discount it. Used is always better financially, but some people want the health of mind with a New vehicle, just keep it reasonable and it will be fine.

$6 It looks like you are set up for success so just keep budgeting and you will get there. 🙂


The difference in price between a new and used Honda SUV is not always enough to justify losing three years of warrantee coverage plus lifespan of the vehicle.

Statistically speaking, buying brand new and paying it off and driving it until it really can’t be repaired anymore is the best way to do it.

Everyone’s got a hard on for a three year old Honda in perfect condition for 0% interest for three years, but you won’t find one for MUCH cheaper than new.

There were some analyses done recently, the trade off margin is razor thin. It didn’t use to be but now, unless you need a used car for some reason, just buying new will get you three more years and the price difference is small.


If you’re looking at luxury vehicles like Lexus or Acuras, then pre-owned might make sense. Luxury vehicles depreciate a lot and tend to lose value quickly in the first few years.

For mainstream reliable vehicles like Hondas and Toyotas buying a 2-3 year old vehicle can actually be financially worse for you than a new car. The problem is those vehicles maintain their values surprisingly well and you lose out on the factory warranty which usually lasts the first 3 years bumper to bumper. Also, newer vehicles tend to be significantly more fuel efficient than older models. The 2017 Honda CR-V, for example, is 3mpg more efficient than it’s 2016 predecessor according to the EPA. Also, keep in mind that a 3 year old car is likely not going to get the EPA estimated mpg due to natural wear and tear, so the difference is going to be more like 5mpg.

Additionally, once cars cross the 5-6 years mark there are expenses that start to pile up, like tire replacement, brake pads etc. which you won’t have in a new vehicle for a long time.

Lastly, newer vehicles are safer. Across the board, cars are getting safer due to active safety monitoring becoming almost standard in addition to the fact that crash test ratings on average are better than 3 years ago.

This sub loves to say pre-owned is the only way to go, but it’s not black and white. Sometimes, newer is a financially better choice in addition to getting a better newer car.


In between jobs. Should I drain my savings for mortgage and student loans, or tell my loan companies I need to skip a month on those?

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This is exactly what your emergency fund is for. Pay your bills on time and keep looking for a job to replenish what you used once you’re employed again.


Applied for unemployment?


> I can’t imagine it taking more than a month to get a job

I’m also a pharmacist – when our department let a lot of people go last year due to workforce reduction, it took all of them 2-12 months to find a new job. Its a saturated market, and depending on where you live, it may take longer than you think. Where I live now, every job posting receives 25-30 applicants.

I would prepare for the worst and use your emergency fund for its intended purpose.


Never be late on your mortgage payment!!! Sell you cat, your CPU, your ass if you have to, just don’t make a late mortgage payment.

If you do, you’ll never be able to refinance, you’ll have a tough time getting another loan for a 2nd home and your 800 credit score will rapidly tank.

All other bills are fine just not your mortgage.


Pay minimums. Cut out all extra spending. Spend every waking moment finding a new job. Sell things on craigslist. Make the cat nervous that its next.

You say you have 6 weeks of emergency money, do not let anything go late.

Rice a beans for food. If you spend more than $100 on food this month, you splurged. Beans are cheap. Lentils are great cooked in chicken broth. $1 ricearoni boxes make a meal for 2.

Make this money last. Scrape the last bit out of the pantry.


Credit Union Permanently Closed All Accounts With Positive Balance

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There is something fishy going on that you are not telling us. If I had to guess, your account is being investigated for something which is why they aren’t giving you a reason


Lack of replies from op is quite suggestive..


my best guess is they closed your account for one of two reasons-

1) Youve filed a high number of chargebacks and your bank has had it. they reimbursed the people you owe and are deducting it from whatever you had in the account.

2) You did something illegal with your account ie wirefraud or depositing fraudulent checks

How many times in the last 2 years have you filed a chargeback? If they arent giving you answers that means there is an investigation and possible cooperation with authorities.


Theres something not right about this story. Its not legal for a financial institution to close your account and keep the money that was in it. Is there something else you left out of your story that you care to share?


Yeah, they can’t arbitrarily steal your $840. I would read the deposit account agreement and either take them to arbitration or small claims court.

Edit: was the $840 garnished? Do you have unpaid bills/taxes/child support? Banks will sometimes close garnished accounts because processing legal orders is very expensive. If the $840 was garnished, you won’t get it back.


Your money is not safe at Bank of America

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I think most big banks are crooks. I was pulling into a Walgreens a few months ago in the town I live in, and I got a fraud alert asking if I was attempting to use my card to pay for a ride share service in New York. Of course I replied that I was not, and I didn’t think anything of it for a few days after that. It showed up on my credit card, so I filed a dispute oh, and I was issued a temporary credit. A month or so later, I received a letter saying that the vendor had proven that it was a legitimate charge and they were reversing the credit. They asked me to fill out a form with any additional evidence I had. I wrote a letter and basically said that there was no way it was me using my card for a ride share service in another state, because minutes after that charge was made, I had used the card at my local pharmacy in my hometown, the email address used for the transaction did not match my email address, the mailing address did not match match my mailing address, and the name did not match my name. They did reverse the reversal and give me a credit after all, but my gosh that was ridiculous!


If you bank at BoA or Wells Fargo, you’re going to (eventually) have a bad time.


This will likely be wildly upvoted because /r/personalfinance *loves* “big bank hate porn.” However, I don’t know that you would have had different results with a credit union.

If someone shows up with your name on their ID, and the picture looks like them, even a credit union is not likely to find in your favor. Thats a lot of risk for someone to commit a felony for only $1,200. They didn’t even hit another branch and drain your account.


Can someone explain what the virtual teller is? How does it check your ID? Is it in a physical location at a bank? Like the fortune tellers at carnivals?


I kicked their ( B of A) to the curb 12 years ago and joined a Credit Union. Best decision I ever made. B of A = bunch of crooks.


My employer posted my current position on an internal Job board. I’m need recommendations on steps to take when I talk to management.

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That’s terrifying and also it appears the writing is on the wall. Keep your head up, stay positive and professional and start sending your resume out. Good luck.


Be very professional, very subtle and calm, but ask your boss for a discussion about your shared leadership role with your co worker after returning from paternity leave. (Hopefully you took FMLA while you were out, as that prevents an employer from penalizing you for this kind of absence.)

Initiating the discussion will serve as a reminder that they appear to be penalizing you for using a federally protected right (FMLA). If that hasn’t been on their minds, then no harm/foul. If it has, they’ll have to take a mental step back.

Also, stop giving your coworker good advice.


Slow down and be very careful about making any unfounded assumptions.

How do you know it’s **your** actual position?

Maybe it was a mistake and they posted the wrong position. Maybe it is the same position, but **your*I position.

Do you have any reason, outside of this, to not trust your boss or employer? Have they ever done anything kinda uncouth to anybody that give seen? I.e., is there any legitimate reason to really think they’d do you dirty?

If not, just go ask your boss about it. And have an open mind. Just say you saw it and ask what the plan is with it.


Schedule a meeting with your boss to discuss, also update your resume.


While you’re out on leave, find another job! You can’t continue with this type of uncertainty. Train the people. Get paid for the leave and look for work elsewhere. The writing is on the wall! LEAVE NOW! There’s something better for you!

Good luck!


Jared’s Jewelers opened a line of credit in my name when “Just checking if I’d be approved” US AZ

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Call them. Kay jewelers did this to me too. Call. They can argue that you signed and blah blah blah but saying that they are checking approval is misleading.

Just don’t stop until you get the result you want.


Salesmen are the worst. I went into a car dealership to test drive some options for the first time in my life and the guy got out a form and asked for some info. I figured it’s reasonable because they’re letting me drive their cars, but the form went on and on and eventually he asked for my SSN. I asked WTF is this form he’s filling out: it’s a loan application! We hadn’t even looked at a car yet!



As others have said, Kay did this exact same thing to me but mine was more complicated. I called to fight them and say I never approved opening of a line of credit. They were happy to help but couldn’t. The custom order ring I just ordered was charged to this line of credit instead of the credit card I handed them.

Paid it off immediately and they still wouldn’t close it until the custom order came in. Custom order came in incorrectly weeks later. Had to wait for a do-over. Came in incorrectly again and I cancelled the whole thing and didn’t leave until I had money in hand. They closed my card in the store while I waited but couldn’t charge back to the card because I had paid it off and I wasn’t going to let them hold my money.

Even if you are angry you need to be persistent and inconvenience them. Doing anything lazy or roundabout will just take longer or not get the full resolution.


Did you fill out an application and sign it? That would constitute approval in most cases if you weren’t reading what you were signing.


I had a furniture shop do this too. I didn’t fill out any paperwork, salesman said he’d run a credit check, then later tells me I was approved for 12k ( 7k on one card, 5k on a different one). I wasn’t aware of how credit scores worked and didn’t really think much into it. Probably should have disputed it but its been a couple years already and I never used the cards


House Poor – suggestions?

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It’s obviously *less expensive* to sell and downsize into something more affordable. You said it yourself: “It’s bigger than we need”, “the house eats up the vast majority of my income”. “It’s just so hard to save or get ahead when so much of my income is going to the house!”

But, you don’t want to sell, either. ” I love my home”, “we love the community/location”, “I don’t want to move.”

So far, it sounds like your best bet is to stay there and put all your money into the house, because you love it.


I would rent out a room to a female college student (since you have a teen daughter)


I grew up in a household where parents were house poor and I vowed to never get into that situation again; my mortgage is low just with my own salary, it’s dirt cheap adding in my wife’s.

I don’t see a reason to have what sounds like a large house for 2 people, one of whom will likely move out soon. Housing is a fickle market and there’s no guarantee it’ll be worth tomorrow what it is today. Personally I would seriously consider downsizing. I don’t really consider real estate to be great investments, but if you lean that way there’s no reason not to view the next house as such as well.


I don’t like being house poor but……Don’t you dare sell that house. Everyone that doesn’t live in Washington has no idea what they are talking about. Where would you live? Its impossible in Seattle. The “your house coud devalue” folks are full of shit. So could your goddamn index fund. Invest in the house. Consider selling it when you retire and moving somewhere else. You “stole” a house in one of the best real estate markets in the country. Be proud of that. If you work in the Seattle area you do everything you can to make it work. This should be a “over my dead body” situation. Also this might be a good generational asset for your daughter too. Even if you move consider renting it. Seriously KEEP. THE. HOUSE.


2600 per month for a house in Seattle?! I pay more than than for my apartment in West Seattle! You would have to go out to the suburbs or get a ridiculously tiny or crappy apartment in the city to get something for less.

Consider renting out a room, that could help a little and people would be chomping at the bit to have an inexpensive room in the city. But definitely do background checks before letting anyone move in, it’s absolutely worth it


Major life changes have trapped me in an expensive situation

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If you can’t spend less, your only option is to make more. Consider second jobs nights and weekends (think: restaurant, retail, cleaning offices, deliver newspapers, whatever), freelancing/consulting if you have an in-demand skill (writing, editing, graphic artist, accountant, tax prep, tutoring, etc.), monetizing your hobby (woodworking/carpentry, selling art or handmade crafts, photography, community sports ref or coach, etc.), or random “odd jobs” (handyman, dog walking/pet sitting, shoveling sidewalks, etc.).


With the amount of credit card debt you already have, putting another $1000 on it to get the car fixed so you can get rid of it sooner will save you money in the long run. You’re currently throwing away money on a car you don’t need. Once you get rid of the car you’ll be able to pay off that $1000 in less than 3 months with the money you’re saving.

If you’re not driving the car, you should reduce your insurance to the state minimum. Depending on the state, you may be able to cancel your insurance if you register the car as non-operable.


Lots of responses about money already.

You need to figure out why you keep getting laid off. Unless you’re in a strange career, five times in eight years is too much and there may be something you can do to decrease the odds of it happening.


>A lot of this debt comes from the $44k I owe to a predatory private lender, at 7% interest.

7% is really not in the realm of “predatory” when it comes to student loans.


Is the $4,883 and $5,000 before or after tax? If before, what’s your rough after-tax numbers? (Expensive areas often have high local taxes, too, so an estimate based on “normal” state is likely to be wrong…)

Either way, the expenses you’ve listed here total to about $2,300; you should have a pretty penny left over after paying this and after taxes. Even if taxes were so much that your after-tax pay was just $3,500 each month, that’s still $1,200 left, with all your bills listed out (except your credit card). That should leave plenty for groceries (stick to basics, and no/minimal eating out), other necessities (*necessary* clothes, hair, etc.), credit card payments, and more to chunk away at the credit card balance. The interest on the credit card balances has *got* to be killing you, getting those down should be #1 priority. No more charging anything to the credit cards, at all.

Watch where every dollar goes. The SUV is expensive yeah, but you make enough to cover that; I expect it’s $10 and $20 here and there that’s adding up to be what’s killing you. And try to get rid of the SUV for sure…but don’t see it as the sole or even primary issue here; the $1,200 that’s “misc”/unexplained is the bigger “issue”, and bigger ability to address it.